Heaphy Track

Last weekend we were able to get our feet on one of the NZ Great Walks---the Heaphy track. After a lot of running on roads and dodgy trails, the prospect of getting on a well-formed track was very welcome. 

The carpark at Kohaihai Bay, where the Kohaihai river meets the Pacific Ocean.

While Ruben slept in I did a little pre-run run out to Carter's Beach. After we both had coffee, we drove 110 km north of Westport through Karamea (population 650) to one end of the 78.4-km point-to-point Heaphy track at Kohaihai Bay. It was a cool, overcast morning--great for running. Our plan was a 20-km return run followed by lunch and a wee browse around Karamea before heading back to Westport.

A Denver Trail Runners-worthy start--straight uphill! 

False alarm. The track skirts the hill. Thank you, Department of Conservation.

Crossing the Kohaihai River.

And entering the forest. This was dense with rata and karaka trees, many vines, and groves of nikau palms.

At several points the forest gave way to beach.
The deep sand was challenging, especially on the return!

The sun came out while we were running, which enhanced the views, but also the temps.
Areas like this one, running on the beach up against a cliff, were hot and muggy.

Another swing bridge along the track.

One of the good things about streams emptying into the ocean is fresh water!
We're still a little squeamish about drinking straight from waterfalls and streams, but on a hot day it feels SO good to splash through the clear, cold water and scoop handfuls over the head and down the shirt.

At our turnaround point, Ruben put me in the lead, so I put the camera away, took myself out of tourist gear, and into running gear. No more pictures. I finished about a half hour ahead of Ruben and walked back to meet him. He did not look like he wanted his picture taken, so for marital harmony I kept the camera in its case and offered him what was left of my water instead.

The Heaphy Track is the longest of the Great Walks, with 7 huts and several lean-to shelters along the way. Trampers need to make reservations to use these huts because it's such a popular route. We passed several groups of trampers packed for at least one overnight. One called us crazies (in a nice way) as we ran past. We're the crazies? That guy was carrying a 40-lb pack!

We were done and dusted and ready for lunch, so we swatted away as many sandflies as we could (those wee beasties are relentless! I got at least 20 bites in the time it took to put on my bug spray) and made food our mission. We were through Karamea before we realized we'd even entered Karamea and stopped at a lodge along the highway to ask where we should go for a bite since it was 4 o'clock and we've learned that small towns shut down around 1 pm on Saturdays. We backtracked 2 kms to the one and only restaurant the lodge owner thought we might find something to discover that the kitchen was closed between lunch and dinner service. Rats! Ruben napped while I drove the twisty, one-lane-bridge-filled road back toward Westport. We discussed briefly if we should stop home to shower before  dining during the main dinner hour on a weekend, but we couldn't wait. We scarfed delicious sandwiches at a restaurant in town called Porto Bello. We ate so fast that we were out of there and headed to the showers before the dinner crowd started to show up.

Hokitika

On the return trip to Westport we stopped in the resort town of Hokitika. It's a coast town, like Westport, but Hokitika has really been able to draw in tourists and grow.

Main Street Hokitika

Ruben just had to stop and try out the public art.

Mid-afternoon on a Sunday and there were quite a few people admiring the surf. It's too rough to swim,
but people were sunbathing on the beach, picnicking, and taking pictures.

As a wee treat, we gifted ourselves with a scenic flight over glacier country. The flight departed from Hokitika Airport on a clear, perfect day.

The Cessna

Ruben was concerned that this plane was too little!

Watching carefully that when the two people sharing our tour were seated
there would be room for both of us, as well as the pilot.

Ready for takeoff.

All systems go.

Leaving Hokitika....

...and entering glacier country.

We were impressed by the vastness of this wilderness. No roads lead into this
Department of Conservation-owned land, so the only way to see it is by air or to hike in.

Wilkinson Glacier

This small plane was able to dive in and around the peaks for an unforgettable glacier experience.

I took more pictures than posted here, but I figured this post was long enough!

About to touch down at Hokitika Airport.

Fox Glacier

From Punakaiki we continued south on Highway 6, through the towns of Greymouth and Hokitika, toward glacier country. There aren't expressways in New Zealand; there are 100 km/h two-lane highways and one-lane bridges. And that's the easy driving. Most of the roads are very winding with steep ascents and descents. The map directions said it should take us two hours to get from Hokitika to Fox Glacier. I was driving at this point and it took us three. I took the yellow caution signs seriously and really went 15 km/h when they suggested 15 km/h. We were incredulous that there were cylclists on these roads with full panniers and even pulling trailers. This would not only be incredibly hard work, but dangerous!

Waiting for cows to cross the road.

Clouds rolling in over the mountains.

Our hotel, the Westhaven Motor Inn, in Fox Glacier Village.

 Fox Glacier Village

Our plan for Saturday was to run to the terminal face of Fox Glacier. One of the main reasons we chose to visit Fox Glacier is that we could pick up a walkway/cycleway on the edge of town and make our way to the glacier on foot.

Along the track.

This looks like it once was riverbed. All of the rivers are low right now,
but we were told that even this was not alarmingly low.

Glimpse of the glacier.

River flowing from the glacier. The water was very grey here due to erosion of the rocks.

The center portion is all glacier, although it's hard to tell because there is so much dirt and sand on the top layer.
The mountains are constantly eroding into the glacier valley.

We met a group from Deerfield, Illinois, along the route.
They were nice enough to snap these pictures for us.

At the terminal face of the glacier. We saw at least three rockslides during our pause here.

The glacier is melting from the bottom up, creating this arch appearance.

We passed this pool along the way. We couldn't get close enough to tell if it was a hot spring,
but the minerals certainly caused some spectacular technicolor!

Wood pigeon.

On the road near Fox Glacier.